Buenos Aires Argentina
"Your destination is not a place, but a new way of seeing things."
Henry Miller
Buenos Aires translates as "fair winds". The name itself conjures up a delightful and relaxing destination. It is one of the most beautiful and expansive cities to which I have traveled. Buenos Aires is a city filled with energy, class, marvelous architecture, and fantastic food and wine. It is a city to enjoy and in which to immerse yourself.
The flight to BA is a little over 9 hours from Atlanta. The route normally is flown over Florida, Cuba, Columbia and the massive Amazon; it is an all night flight arriving in the early morning hours into the international airport (Ministro Pistarini International Airport -- SAEZ).
The airport is very efficient and modern. Although the airport is not large, it hosts many carriers from around the world. Customs and immigration are very straightforward and hassle free. It is located in the suburb city of Ezeiza, which is about a half hour taxi ride, without traffic, from downtown BA.
I flew to Buenos Aires in mid-April. The Friday night flight was smooth and uneventful. Although flying through an area around the equator called the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone can be bumpy, it was not turbulent that night.
With three pilots aboard, we each get a break from flight deck duties during the flight. There is a seat in business class in which we can rest for a period of time. This rest, which varies according to the length of the flight, is mandated on flights over a certain length of time. Although seeing a pilot sitting in a passenger seat is a concern to some, there are always at least two highly qualified pilots in the cockpit during the flight. That night, each pilot got almost three hours of break time.
On arrival into the airport, we flew a Category III landing because of the smoke and low visibility from fires in nearby fields. A Cat III landing is a type of instrument landing that is fully automated. In fact, the autopilot flies the airplane all the way to the ground and part of the rollout. It is a very precise type of approach and is not used that often.
The smell of the smoke from the grass fires was of concern to passengers and flight attendants after landing. Smoke and airplanes don't normally make a good mix, but this time the hazard was outside of the plane. As we taxied into the gate, the relief pilot explained the source of the smoke to the passengers over the public address system. We came to find out that the smoke was from fires set by farmers to clear land for livestock grazing.
Argentina and beef go together. Some of the most flavorful steaks that I have ever eaten have been consumed in that country. Argentina has the highest per capita meat consumption in the world; Buenos Aires is not exactly a vegetarian's dream destination. The city is filled with steakhouses.
This stay in BA was the typical 36 hours. Arriving at the hotel in the early morning, the crew is offered breakfast because our rooms are not ready. Not a big, hearty American style breakfast, but one of breads, cakes, and croissants along with strong coffee. Some of the crew goes next door to eat empanadas that are fried and flaky dough filled with different meats or vegetable--a local favorite.
After a nap and shower, I am out of the hotel. The hotel is located close to Avenue Florida. The Avenue Florida is the biggest pedestrians-only shopping street in Buenos Aires and is normally very crowded with tourist and locals alike. One of my favorite places along this road is the Galerias Pacifico shopping center; it is a beautiful multi-level shopping center at the corner of Florida and Cordoba. It was built in the late 1800s and was the major shopping galleria in Buenos Aires until the 1960s. At that time it was taken over by the state-run railroad offices. During the early 1990s, it was refurbished by a private company and reopened in 1992 as a shopping center. It is a great place to shop or catch a quick bite.
Across the street from the galleria is the stunning Centro Naval. The Centro was founded in 1882 by officers of the Argentine Navy as a social club and an institute for the advancement of naval sciences. It is closed to the public, but admiring the outside architecture is worth the stop. As a formal naval officer, I stand and admire the ornate bronze doors which feature shields, arrows, and other symbols of war, all of which is overseen by a bronze sea god standing in a Spanish galleon announcing triumph through a conch shell.
From there we head to one of my favorite wine shops, The Winery, located on Avenue Leandro N. Alem. It has a wine shop upstairs and a cafe downstairs. It is a quite and relaxing place where you can enjoy a glass of wine and hors d'oeuvres. Along with a cheese plate, I have a glass of Joffre e Hijas malbec. It is a deep ruby-red, full-bodied wine that I thoroughly enjoy.
With New World wines coming into their own, much attention is being paid to Argentine reds. The malbec wines are from the region of Mendoza (on the eastern slope of the Andes) and are full-bodied and very flavorful.
Steak is everywhere in Buenos Aires. Argentina's range-fed beef is firmer and more flavorful than the corn syrup-fed steaks we eat in the US. Here you can enjoy the full steakhouse experience at a third the price of Atlanta or most other US cities. In fact, La Cabrera Norte is such a steakhouse and came highly recommended. It took about twenty minutes in a cab to find it. It is a small steakhouse that is packed with locals and tourist for a reason.
The choice of beef is amazing and all main courses are accompanied by many small, varied complimentary side dishes. These side dishes range from sauces, couscous, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, squash puree, sweet pickled garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, and many others. The service was prompt and attentive even thought the tables are very close together. This is not a restaurant you should go to if you are on a diet of any kind.
Being a triathlete, I look for places to run and swim in every city to which I travel. One of the best finds in Buenos Aires is the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve. Within running distance of the hotel, it offers a five-mile loop in a natural setting and is removed from the stop-and-go of city running. The park also offers a remarkable view of the city very few tourist get to see.
To finish up the layover, a little sightseeing and look at history is in order. The Avenida Alvear is within walking distance of the hotel and offers some of most beautiful old residences and small palaces in the area.
The street is representative of the French influence and haute couture that once abounded in Buenos Aires. Located in the barrio Recoleta, we started our walk at the French Embassy and finished at the Alvear Palace Hotel.
One of my favorite finds is the Palacio Duhau. The Palacio Duhau was once the home of a family involved in the Ministry of Agriculture; it is big, elegant, refined and quiet. It is now part of the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires; although a hotel, stepping inside is like walking into a private mansion. The garden view and Oak Bar are worth the stop. In fact, the panel in the bar is from a castle in Normandy France.
We finished of the morning with lunch at the Four Seasons hotel. The Le Mistral restaurant within the hotel offered a Mediterranean buffet of seafood, cold cuts, cheeses and soups. Of course, the Argentinean grilled meats could also be ordered. The lunch was the perfect finish to a very enjoyable stay.
I will return to Buenos Aires; when I do, I will enjoy even more. Each visit brings new sights and revelations. It is a vibrant city that offers so much to so many.
Henry Miller
Buenos Aires translates as "fair winds". The name itself conjures up a delightful and relaxing destination. It is one of the most beautiful and expansive cities to which I have traveled. Buenos Aires is a city filled with energy, class, marvelous architecture, and fantastic food and wine. It is a city to enjoy and in which to immerse yourself.
The flight to BA is a little over 9 hours from Atlanta. The route normally is flown over Florida, Cuba, Columbia and the massive Amazon; it is an all night flight arriving in the early morning hours into the international airport (Ministro Pistarini International Airport -- SAEZ).
The airport is very efficient and modern. Although the airport is not large, it hosts many carriers from around the world. Customs and immigration are very straightforward and hassle free. It is located in the suburb city of Ezeiza, which is about a half hour taxi ride, without traffic, from downtown BA.
I flew to Buenos Aires in mid-April. The Friday night flight was smooth and uneventful. Although flying through an area around the equator called the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone can be bumpy, it was not turbulent that night.
With three pilots aboard, we each get a break from flight deck duties during the flight. There is a seat in business class in which we can rest for a period of time. This rest, which varies according to the length of the flight, is mandated on flights over a certain length of time. Although seeing a pilot sitting in a passenger seat is a concern to some, there are always at least two highly qualified pilots in the cockpit during the flight. That night, each pilot got almost three hours of break time.
On arrival into the airport, we flew a Category III landing because of the smoke and low visibility from fires in nearby fields. A Cat III landing is a type of instrument landing that is fully automated. In fact, the autopilot flies the airplane all the way to the ground and part of the rollout. It is a very precise type of approach and is not used that often.
The smell of the smoke from the grass fires was of concern to passengers and flight attendants after landing. Smoke and airplanes don't normally make a good mix, but this time the hazard was outside of the plane. As we taxied into the gate, the relief pilot explained the source of the smoke to the passengers over the public address system. We came to find out that the smoke was from fires set by farmers to clear land for livestock grazing.
Argentina and beef go together. Some of the most flavorful steaks that I have ever eaten have been consumed in that country. Argentina has the highest per capita meat consumption in the world; Buenos Aires is not exactly a vegetarian's dream destination. The city is filled with steakhouses.
This stay in BA was the typical 36 hours. Arriving at the hotel in the early morning, the crew is offered breakfast because our rooms are not ready. Not a big, hearty American style breakfast, but one of breads, cakes, and croissants along with strong coffee. Some of the crew goes next door to eat empanadas that are fried and flaky dough filled with different meats or vegetable--a local favorite.
After a nap and shower, I am out of the hotel. The hotel is located close to Avenue Florida. The Avenue Florida is the biggest pedestrians-only shopping street in Buenos Aires and is normally very crowded with tourist and locals alike. One of my favorite places along this road is the Galerias Pacifico shopping center; it is a beautiful multi-level shopping center at the corner of Florida and Cordoba. It was built in the late 1800s and was the major shopping galleria in Buenos Aires until the 1960s. At that time it was taken over by the state-run railroad offices. During the early 1990s, it was refurbished by a private company and reopened in 1992 as a shopping center. It is a great place to shop or catch a quick bite.
Across the street from the galleria is the stunning Centro Naval. The Centro was founded in 1882 by officers of the Argentine Navy as a social club and an institute for the advancement of naval sciences. It is closed to the public, but admiring the outside architecture is worth the stop. As a formal naval officer, I stand and admire the ornate bronze doors which feature shields, arrows, and other symbols of war, all of which is overseen by a bronze sea god standing in a Spanish galleon announcing triumph through a conch shell.
From there we head to one of my favorite wine shops, The Winery, located on Avenue Leandro N. Alem. It has a wine shop upstairs and a cafe downstairs. It is a quite and relaxing place where you can enjoy a glass of wine and hors d'oeuvres. Along with a cheese plate, I have a glass of Joffre e Hijas malbec. It is a deep ruby-red, full-bodied wine that I thoroughly enjoy.
With New World wines coming into their own, much attention is being paid to Argentine reds. The malbec wines are from the region of Mendoza (on the eastern slope of the Andes) and are full-bodied and very flavorful.
Steak is everywhere in Buenos Aires. Argentina's range-fed beef is firmer and more flavorful than the corn syrup-fed steaks we eat in the US. Here you can enjoy the full steakhouse experience at a third the price of Atlanta or most other US cities. In fact, La Cabrera Norte is such a steakhouse and came highly recommended. It took about twenty minutes in a cab to find it. It is a small steakhouse that is packed with locals and tourist for a reason.
The choice of beef is amazing and all main courses are accompanied by many small, varied complimentary side dishes. These side dishes range from sauces, couscous, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, squash puree, sweet pickled garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, and many others. The service was prompt and attentive even thought the tables are very close together. This is not a restaurant you should go to if you are on a diet of any kind.
Being a triathlete, I look for places to run and swim in every city to which I travel. One of the best finds in Buenos Aires is the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve. Within running distance of the hotel, it offers a five-mile loop in a natural setting and is removed from the stop-and-go of city running. The park also offers a remarkable view of the city very few tourist get to see.
To finish up the layover, a little sightseeing and look at history is in order. The Avenida Alvear is within walking distance of the hotel and offers some of most beautiful old residences and small palaces in the area.
The street is representative of the French influence and haute couture that once abounded in Buenos Aires. Located in the barrio Recoleta, we started our walk at the French Embassy and finished at the Alvear Palace Hotel.
One of my favorite finds is the Palacio Duhau. The Palacio Duhau was once the home of a family involved in the Ministry of Agriculture; it is big, elegant, refined and quiet. It is now part of the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires; although a hotel, stepping inside is like walking into a private mansion. The garden view and Oak Bar are worth the stop. In fact, the panel in the bar is from a castle in Normandy France.
We finished of the morning with lunch at the Four Seasons hotel. The Le Mistral restaurant within the hotel offered a Mediterranean buffet of seafood, cold cuts, cheeses and soups. Of course, the Argentinean grilled meats could also be ordered. The lunch was the perfect finish to a very enjoyable stay.
I will return to Buenos Aires; when I do, I will enjoy even more. Each visit brings new sights and revelations. It is a vibrant city that offers so much to so many.
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