Prague
As our Boeing 767ER descends through five thousand feet and a thin layer of cumulus clouds, the outskirts of Prague come into view. The small towns surrounding the city line the rolling hills in multi-colored patches. The morning sun casts deep shadows into the valleys and brightens the near-side of the slopes. We had arrived at what some call the east-west crossroads--the city of Prague.
Prague is often called the Golden City--from our altitude you can see why. The predominant color of the buildings is a light gold. I am sure there are other reasons for its nickname, but this explanation makes sense to me now. Prague is once again a city of influence and attracts a great number of tourist and businesses.
We turn base and line up for landing at Ruzyně International Airport. Prague's airport is one of the busiest in Eastern Europe. It serves as the hub for Czech Airlines, SkyEurope, and Smart Wings. Delta serves it daily with a non-stop flight from Atlanta. On this flight, it is my son Sam's first time here and he is very excited but a little tired from the all-nighter; jet lag takes its toll on everyone.
After deplaning, we quickly pass through immigration and customs and catch our thirty minute ride to the hotel. The Crowne Plaza at which we are staying is situated next to the Strahov Monastery. The hotel was once part of the monastery's stables, but has been converted into one of my favorite hotels in which to stay. It is simple and eloquent and attention to service is paramount. After a quick nap, we set out to explore this magnificent city.
We walk around to the monastery and, as we pass through the entrance archway into the courtyard, we are greeted by the beautiful facade of the Basilica of Our Lady . This church is a 17th-century Baroque remodeling of an original 12th century building. The monastery sits high upon a hill overlooking the city. It was founded in 1143 and is one of the oldest monasteries of the Premonstratensian Order in the world.
At the west entrance to the monastery, we take a slight right turn and follow the cobblestone path up the hill and enter what used to be the monk's wine cave--it is now a restaurant called "Hell". We have some coffee, make pictures, and Sam gets a language lesson from the waiter. After we finish our refreshments, Sam tells the waiter "Dekuji" and we leave.
We walk through the peaceful tree lined grounds and leave through the east gate. As we walk through the gate, we have an astounding bird's-eye view of the country side and the city below. The monk's must have chosen this sight for its heaven-like view. On the east side of the monastery and outside the gate is a restaurant overlooking the vineyards, the castle and the city below. It offers outside dinning with its breathtaking view. It is called BellaVista for a reason.
We walk down the steep hill and enter the castle. We want to take in a concert offered tonight at the Basilica of Saint George, at least I do. Sam is thirteen and his interest have not turned to classical music concerts--it might be 30 or more years before he begins to appreciate the beauty offered by this type of music. But one of my duties as a father, I believe, is to introduce and expose him to the finer things of life; a seed planted now might germinate into something greater later on. I hope so.
We purchase the tickets and take a walk around the castle. The original part of the castle was started in the year 870. Saint George, the sight of the concert, was founded in the first half of the tenth century (920 AD). The royal palace was build in the 1100s and expanded during the reign of Charles IV in the fourteenth century. Construction of the huge gothic church of St. Vitus took nearly 600 years to complete and is now a central point of the castle. Many buildings were added as the castle expanded into what it is today; the last major additions took place under the reign of Queen Maria Theresa in the second half of the eighteenth century.
As an aside, during WWII, the castle was the headquarters of Reinhard Heydric--the nazi protector of Bohemia. Not being able to refuse to plunder the jewels of the castle, Heydric is said to have placed the Bohemian crown on his head. An old bohemian legends says that if a conquerer places the crown on his head he is doomed to die within a year. Unfortunately for Heydrich, he was assassinated within a year of his ill fated decision.
At the end of WWII, the castle housed some communist offices. Today, the castle is the seat of the Head of State of the new Czech Republic. Most of the castle is open to the public, but some areas require that you purchase a ticket to enter--such as the basilica of St. George, the Grand Hall and the Golden Lane.
The concert starts at 6:30 and we arrive a little early to get a good seat. The Romanesque church is small and very simple. The Royal Prague Orchestra, a nine piece string ensemble, takes the podium and performs for a little over an hour presenting a combination of Bach, Mozart, Schubert, Bizet, Dvorak and Tchaichovsky. This venue is one of the many concert halls in the city. If you are looking for something bigger, Prague hosts the Prague Spring International Music Festival, the Prague Autumn International Music Festival and the Prague International Organ Festival.
From here we eat dinner at a favorite restaurant (Nad Uvozem) overlooking the city; the meal is local and the wine is perfect. Czech wines are not well known but the winemakers of Moravia and Bohemia are trying to change that. I encourage you to be open to these wines because they are very good. After dinner and dessert, we walk to the most famous landmark in the city -- the Charles Bridge.
In 1170, King Vladisla II had the Judith bridge build over the Vltava River. This bridge crumbled during the flood of 1342 and on its foundation the Charles Bridge was constructed. The Charles Bridge is a stone gothic structure connecting Old Town on the east to Mala Strana on the west bank. Today, it is being structurally improved after years of neglect.
Towers stand on each end of the bridge. In between and along the two sides stand thirty Baroque statues. The most popular statue is that of St. John of Nepomuk (he is buried in St. Vitus cathedral surrounded by one ton of silver). During the reign of King Wenceslas, Saint John listened to the confessions of the good king's wife. The king wanted John to divulge what was said, but he refused. As a result, the king had John tortured, killed and thrown from the Charles Bridge into the water below. It is said that five stars emerged from the water the moment John hit. Local custom claims that if you rub the plague at the base of the martyr's statue and make a wish, it will come true. The statue is always surrounded by tourist hoping St. John will look after their wishes.
The next day, after a light breakfast, we start with some exercise. I run seven miles up Petrin Hill, past the stadium and through the beautiful adjoining park and back to the hotel. Sam and Patti walk up the same hill to visit the observation tower . We join up after showers for lunch and a visit to the Loretta Church. The church is popular with pilgrims and tourist since it contains a beam from the Santa Casa . It is a beautiful small church where you can also light a candle to the patron saint of unhappy marriages.
We walk the short distance to the palace to visit the inside of St. Vitus Cathedral. The gothic Cathedral is over 600 years old and is a place where kings, saints and emperors are buried. The intricate stained glass and wood carvings inside the Cathedral tell some of the history of the church and city. It is massive and has been of great influence over the last half millennium. Back into the bright daylight, we walk out and down Nerudova Street and take a right half way down.
Descending the steps onto Trziste Street we pass the US Embassy and stop at a corner cafe for refreshments. Energized again, we walk to the John Lennon wall. This wall, a tribute to the famous Beatle, sprang up during the communist regime as a shrine to hope and peace. The wall is covered with art work, poems, flowers and statements from all parts of the world now. After imagining what could be, we again cross the Charles bridge and head into old town.
The old town square is the oldest part of Prague. The square is surrounded by City Hall and its astronomical clock, St. Nicholas Church and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn. City Hall was established in 1338 and its clock tower is now popular with tourist. The clock was originally built in 1410 and consists of three parts — the procession of Apostles, the astronomical clock and the calendar. We wait for the skeleton, one of four characters standing beside the clock, to start the procession at the top of the hour. After the performance we then meander over to New Town.
New Town was founded in 1348 by Charles IV but much development has transformed it into a modern assembly of unattractive buildings. At the center of New Town is Wenceslas Square. The square is about a quarter mile long and 200 feet wide surrounded by stores, hotels, theaters, and souvenir shops. But despite its appearance, it is here that communist control of Czechoslovakia was overthrown. In 1969, Jan Palach set himself ablaze in front of the National Museum to protest the Warsaw Pact invasion (patched up bullet holes can still be seen on the front side of the museum). In November of 1989, the Velvet Revolution ended communism in this part of the world. But most impressive is the statue of Wenceslas on a horse surrounded by four figures all carrying books. He is facing the west and looking down the square. This king and saint was a formidable figure in Bohemian history and continues to offer hope to all people of the world.
We stopped for pizza before returning to the bridge. Sam wanted to take sunset pictures and this was an ideal time. A slight rain started but ended quickly. For those of us who stayed on the bridge, a magical 180 degree rainbow formed over old town. Perhaps St. John of Nepomuk or perhaps Wenceslas was still looking after their golden city.
We walked to David's restaurant for dessert. It is up the cobble-stoned street from the US embassy. After ringing the bell on the front of the building, we were greeted by the owner of the restaurant and invited in. Classical music was playing in the two-room restaurant. Even though we did not come for a full meal, we were treated as if we had. The dessert and wine were served with dignity and class and the taste of both are outstanding. We lingered and enjoyed the last bit of the evening. Our time in Prague was coming to a close.
Prague is the sixth most visited city in Europe for a reason. It is filled with fascinating history, great sights, marvelous food, and hospitable people. It is one of those places that, once you visit, you are forever changed.
Prague is often called the Golden City--from our altitude you can see why. The predominant color of the buildings is a light gold. I am sure there are other reasons for its nickname, but this explanation makes sense to me now. Prague is once again a city of influence and attracts a great number of tourist and businesses.
We turn base and line up for landing at Ruzyně International Airport. Prague's airport is one of the busiest in Eastern Europe. It serves as the hub for Czech Airlines, SkyEurope, and Smart Wings. Delta serves it daily with a non-stop flight from Atlanta. On this flight, it is my son Sam's first time here and he is very excited but a little tired from the all-nighter; jet lag takes its toll on everyone.
After deplaning, we quickly pass through immigration and customs and catch our thirty minute ride to the hotel. The Crowne Plaza at which we are staying is situated next to the Strahov Monastery. The hotel was once part of the monastery's stables, but has been converted into one of my favorite hotels in which to stay. It is simple and eloquent and attention to service is paramount. After a quick nap, we set out to explore this magnificent city.
We walk around to the monastery and, as we pass through the entrance archway into the courtyard, we are greeted by the beautiful facade of the Basilica of Our Lady . This church is a 17th-century Baroque remodeling of an original 12th century building. The monastery sits high upon a hill overlooking the city. It was founded in 1143 and is one of the oldest monasteries of the Premonstratensian Order in the world.
At the west entrance to the monastery, we take a slight right turn and follow the cobblestone path up the hill and enter what used to be the monk's wine cave--it is now a restaurant called "Hell". We have some coffee, make pictures, and Sam gets a language lesson from the waiter. After we finish our refreshments, Sam tells the waiter "Dekuji" and we leave.
We walk through the peaceful tree lined grounds and leave through the east gate. As we walk through the gate, we have an astounding bird's-eye view of the country side and the city below. The monk's must have chosen this sight for its heaven-like view. On the east side of the monastery and outside the gate is a restaurant overlooking the vineyards, the castle and the city below. It offers outside dinning with its breathtaking view. It is called BellaVista for a reason.
We walk down the steep hill and enter the castle. We want to take in a concert offered tonight at the Basilica of Saint George, at least I do. Sam is thirteen and his interest have not turned to classical music concerts--it might be 30 or more years before he begins to appreciate the beauty offered by this type of music. But one of my duties as a father, I believe, is to introduce and expose him to the finer things of life; a seed planted now might germinate into something greater later on. I hope so.
We purchase the tickets and take a walk around the castle. The original part of the castle was started in the year 870. Saint George, the sight of the concert, was founded in the first half of the tenth century (920 AD). The royal palace was build in the 1100s and expanded during the reign of Charles IV in the fourteenth century. Construction of the huge gothic church of St. Vitus took nearly 600 years to complete and is now a central point of the castle. Many buildings were added as the castle expanded into what it is today; the last major additions took place under the reign of Queen Maria Theresa in the second half of the eighteenth century.
As an aside, during WWII, the castle was the headquarters of Reinhard Heydric--the nazi protector of Bohemia. Not being able to refuse to plunder the jewels of the castle, Heydric is said to have placed the Bohemian crown on his head. An old bohemian legends says that if a conquerer places the crown on his head he is doomed to die within a year. Unfortunately for Heydrich, he was assassinated within a year of his ill fated decision.
At the end of WWII, the castle housed some communist offices. Today, the castle is the seat of the Head of State of the new Czech Republic. Most of the castle is open to the public, but some areas require that you purchase a ticket to enter--such as the basilica of St. George, the Grand Hall and the Golden Lane.
The concert starts at 6:30 and we arrive a little early to get a good seat. The Romanesque church is small and very simple. The Royal Prague Orchestra, a nine piece string ensemble, takes the podium and performs for a little over an hour presenting a combination of Bach, Mozart, Schubert, Bizet, Dvorak and Tchaichovsky. This venue is one of the many concert halls in the city. If you are looking for something bigger, Prague hosts the Prague Spring International Music Festival, the Prague Autumn International Music Festival and the Prague International Organ Festival.
From here we eat dinner at a favorite restaurant (Nad Uvozem) overlooking the city; the meal is local and the wine is perfect. Czech wines are not well known but the winemakers of Moravia and Bohemia are trying to change that. I encourage you to be open to these wines because they are very good. After dinner and dessert, we walk to the most famous landmark in the city -- the Charles Bridge.
In 1170, King Vladisla II had the Judith bridge build over the Vltava River. This bridge crumbled during the flood of 1342 and on its foundation the Charles Bridge was constructed. The Charles Bridge is a stone gothic structure connecting Old Town on the east to Mala Strana on the west bank. Today, it is being structurally improved after years of neglect.
Towers stand on each end of the bridge. In between and along the two sides stand thirty Baroque statues. The most popular statue is that of St. John of Nepomuk (he is buried in St. Vitus cathedral surrounded by one ton of silver). During the reign of King Wenceslas, Saint John listened to the confessions of the good king's wife. The king wanted John to divulge what was said, but he refused. As a result, the king had John tortured, killed and thrown from the Charles Bridge into the water below. It is said that five stars emerged from the water the moment John hit. Local custom claims that if you rub the plague at the base of the martyr's statue and make a wish, it will come true. The statue is always surrounded by tourist hoping St. John will look after their wishes.
The next day, after a light breakfast, we start with some exercise. I run seven miles up Petrin Hill, past the stadium and through the beautiful adjoining park and back to the hotel. Sam and Patti walk up the same hill to visit the observation tower . We join up after showers for lunch and a visit to the Loretta Church. The church is popular with pilgrims and tourist since it contains a beam from the Santa Casa . It is a beautiful small church where you can also light a candle to the patron saint of unhappy marriages.
We walk the short distance to the palace to visit the inside of St. Vitus Cathedral. The gothic Cathedral is over 600 years old and is a place where kings, saints and emperors are buried. The intricate stained glass and wood carvings inside the Cathedral tell some of the history of the church and city. It is massive and has been of great influence over the last half millennium. Back into the bright daylight, we walk out and down Nerudova Street and take a right half way down.
Descending the steps onto Trziste Street we pass the US Embassy and stop at a corner cafe for refreshments. Energized again, we walk to the John Lennon wall. This wall, a tribute to the famous Beatle, sprang up during the communist regime as a shrine to hope and peace. The wall is covered with art work, poems, flowers and statements from all parts of the world now. After imagining what could be, we again cross the Charles bridge and head into old town.
The old town square is the oldest part of Prague. The square is surrounded by City Hall and its astronomical clock, St. Nicholas Church and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn. City Hall was established in 1338 and its clock tower is now popular with tourist. The clock was originally built in 1410 and consists of three parts — the procession of Apostles, the astronomical clock and the calendar. We wait for the skeleton, one of four characters standing beside the clock, to start the procession at the top of the hour. After the performance we then meander over to New Town.
New Town was founded in 1348 by Charles IV but much development has transformed it into a modern assembly of unattractive buildings. At the center of New Town is Wenceslas Square. The square is about a quarter mile long and 200 feet wide surrounded by stores, hotels, theaters, and souvenir shops. But despite its appearance, it is here that communist control of Czechoslovakia was overthrown. In 1969, Jan Palach set himself ablaze in front of the National Museum to protest the Warsaw Pact invasion (patched up bullet holes can still be seen on the front side of the museum). In November of 1989, the Velvet Revolution ended communism in this part of the world. But most impressive is the statue of Wenceslas on a horse surrounded by four figures all carrying books. He is facing the west and looking down the square. This king and saint was a formidable figure in Bohemian history and continues to offer hope to all people of the world.
We stopped for pizza before returning to the bridge. Sam wanted to take sunset pictures and this was an ideal time. A slight rain started but ended quickly. For those of us who stayed on the bridge, a magical 180 degree rainbow formed over old town. Perhaps St. John of Nepomuk or perhaps Wenceslas was still looking after their golden city.
We walked to David's restaurant for dessert. It is up the cobble-stoned street from the US embassy. After ringing the bell on the front of the building, we were greeted by the owner of the restaurant and invited in. Classical music was playing in the two-room restaurant. Even though we did not come for a full meal, we were treated as if we had. The dessert and wine were served with dignity and class and the taste of both are outstanding. We lingered and enjoyed the last bit of the evening. Our time in Prague was coming to a close.
Prague is the sixth most visited city in Europe for a reason. It is filled with fascinating history, great sights, marvelous food, and hospitable people. It is one of those places that, once you visit, you are forever changed.
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