Lima Peru
The thing that strikes me most about flying into Lima Peru is the aridness of the countryside. Although situated in the tropics, rain in the city is rare. During this time of year, however, the climate is mild and the temperature is in the low 60s. Found on the western base of the Andes and by the coast of the Pacific Ocean, Lima's climate is moderated by the nearby Pacific Ocean's cold current. Although the edge of the tropical storm Fay was beginning to move into Atlanta the night we left, the six-and-one-half hour flight to Peru was for the most part very smooth. The flight to Lima departed at almost midnight and arrived at 5:30 AM local. The weather on arrival turned out perfect for this three day trip. But before enjoying the weather and heading out to explore the city, I had to catch some sleep at the Thunderbird Las Americas hotel in Miraflores.
The Miraflores district is on the coast and about an hours drive from the airport. It is filled with upscale stores, parks, restaurants, beaches and gardens. Miraflores is nice area with Inca ruins to explore, but this time the origins of the old, colonial city call me.
A twenty minute, five dollar cab ride takes you to the Plaza San Martin. We get out of the cab and spot a crowded, street-side cafe and decide to eat lunch there. After the coffee, light soup and bread, we walk around the square. Surrounded by grand buildings of the French style, the plaza is one of the largest in Lima. In the center is a statue of monument to Jose de San Martin. Jose de San Martin was an Argentine general who, along with Simon Bolivar, helped South America win its independence from Spain.
On the western edge of the plaza is the Gran Hotel Bolivar. In 1924, Lima's President, August Leguía, decided to build the hotel to lodge dignitaries arriving for the celebration of the Centennial of the Battle of Ayacucho. It is a magnifiecient hotel with a beautiful arched, stained glass foyer that leads to a quiet bar. Here, we have the best Pisco Sours in the city. The drink is mixed perfectly by the attentive bar tender; we sip the drink, talk, and enjoy the elegant surroundings. This is a superb hotel with a great atmosphere, location and friendliness.
Leaving the hotel, we walk down Jiron de la Union, a pedestrian only street that connects Plaza San Martin to the venerable Plaza de Armas. This street is filled with a lively mixture of restaurants, shops, banks and theaters. Besides the available shopping, the most amazing find along this road was the Aero Club del Peru located at Number 722. It is an aviator's association founded to promote aviation. The club has a remarkable collection of photos and even an early single-seat aircraft. Not only a private club, but it also has a restaurant that is open to the general public. As a pilot, this place was special for me.
The Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the city in 1535 and named it as La Ciudad de los Reyes -- The City of Kings. The city became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru, is the site of the first university in the western hemisphere, and it is here that the printing press was used for the first time in the Americas. At the heart of the city is the expansive and historical Plaza de Armas. The center was declared a UNESCO World heritage Site in 1988 because of the colonial era buildings.
At the center of the square is a large 1652 bronze fountain with an angel perched on top blowing a trumpet. Surrounding the fountain are buildings that match architecturally. On the north side of the plaza is the Palacio de Gobierno and is where Lima's president lives; it and is heavily guarded by armed police and a strong fence. Although the palace was closed when we were there, free guided tours are offered Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. On the right side of the palace is the Municipalidad de Lima (City Hall). On the east side of the square is La Catedral and it here is where Pizarro is buried. The Cathedral was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1746 and is thus one of the oldest building on the square.
Although the buildings are fascinating, the history of the plaza is mostly hidden from view. It is here on where Inca temples once stood, Spanish conquistadors established a government, Pizarro was assassinated, and citizens were accused of sorcery and punished during the Spanish Inquisition. Within a few blocks of the square is the Museo de la Inquisicion (the Inquisition Museum) and is situated across from the Peruvian Congress. Although the exhibits are written in spanish, English guides are occasionally available. Even without the guides, the exhibits prove to be powerful examples of man's inhumanity and tendency to use power carelessly. The Inquisitions of Peru started in 1570 and must have "processed " 3000 citizens the church accused of heresy, Protestantism, Judaism, blasphemy, or sexual deviation. The museum accurately replicates tribunal Courtrooms, dungeons for the excommunicated, torture rooms, and the Hall of the Secret. You cannot leave this museum without questioning how people in positions of trust and power can so often go astray and be so cruel.
We leave the center of town and arrive back in Miraflores in time for dinner. We catch a taxi ride to La Rose Nautica on the water. The sophisticated restaurant sits on the end of a pier and offers a great view of the setting sun. We started the meal with ceviche and then followed it with the speciality of the day -- a seafood combination which offered more than we could eat. After dinner, the adjoining bar offered a perfect way to end the day -- a favorite drink while sitting above the water and listening to the waves break.
The Miraflores district is on the coast and about an hours drive from the airport. It is filled with upscale stores, parks, restaurants, beaches and gardens. Miraflores is nice area with Inca ruins to explore, but this time the origins of the old, colonial city call me.
A twenty minute, five dollar cab ride takes you to the Plaza San Martin. We get out of the cab and spot a crowded, street-side cafe and decide to eat lunch there. After the coffee, light soup and bread, we walk around the square. Surrounded by grand buildings of the French style, the plaza is one of the largest in Lima. In the center is a statue of monument to Jose de San Martin. Jose de San Martin was an Argentine general who, along with Simon Bolivar, helped South America win its independence from Spain.
On the western edge of the plaza is the Gran Hotel Bolivar. In 1924, Lima's President, August Leguía, decided to build the hotel to lodge dignitaries arriving for the celebration of the Centennial of the Battle of Ayacucho. It is a magnifiecient hotel with a beautiful arched, stained glass foyer that leads to a quiet bar. Here, we have the best Pisco Sours in the city. The drink is mixed perfectly by the attentive bar tender; we sip the drink, talk, and enjoy the elegant surroundings. This is a superb hotel with a great atmosphere, location and friendliness.
Leaving the hotel, we walk down Jiron de la Union, a pedestrian only street that connects Plaza San Martin to the venerable Plaza de Armas. This street is filled with a lively mixture of restaurants, shops, banks and theaters. Besides the available shopping, the most amazing find along this road was the Aero Club del Peru located at Number 722. It is an aviator's association founded to promote aviation. The club has a remarkable collection of photos and even an early single-seat aircraft. Not only a private club, but it also has a restaurant that is open to the general public. As a pilot, this place was special for me.
The Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the city in 1535 and named it as La Ciudad de los Reyes -- The City of Kings. The city became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru, is the site of the first university in the western hemisphere, and it is here that the printing press was used for the first time in the Americas. At the heart of the city is the expansive and historical Plaza de Armas. The center was declared a UNESCO World heritage Site in 1988 because of the colonial era buildings.
At the center of the square is a large 1652 bronze fountain with an angel perched on top blowing a trumpet. Surrounding the fountain are buildings that match architecturally. On the north side of the plaza is the Palacio de Gobierno and is where Lima's president lives; it and is heavily guarded by armed police and a strong fence. Although the palace was closed when we were there, free guided tours are offered Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. On the right side of the palace is the Municipalidad de Lima (City Hall). On the east side of the square is La Catedral and it here is where Pizarro is buried. The Cathedral was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1746 and is thus one of the oldest building on the square.
Although the buildings are fascinating, the history of the plaza is mostly hidden from view. It is here on where Inca temples once stood, Spanish conquistadors established a government, Pizarro was assassinated, and citizens were accused of sorcery and punished during the Spanish Inquisition. Within a few blocks of the square is the Museo de la Inquisicion (the Inquisition Museum) and is situated across from the Peruvian Congress. Although the exhibits are written in spanish, English guides are occasionally available. Even without the guides, the exhibits prove to be powerful examples of man's inhumanity and tendency to use power carelessly. The Inquisitions of Peru started in 1570 and must have "processed " 3000 citizens the church accused of heresy, Protestantism, Judaism, blasphemy, or sexual deviation. The museum accurately replicates tribunal Courtrooms, dungeons for the excommunicated, torture rooms, and the Hall of the Secret. You cannot leave this museum without questioning how people in positions of trust and power can so often go astray and be so cruel.
We leave the center of town and arrive back in Miraflores in time for dinner. We catch a taxi ride to La Rose Nautica on the water. The sophisticated restaurant sits on the end of a pier and offers a great view of the setting sun. We started the meal with ceviche and then followed it with the speciality of the day -- a seafood combination which offered more than we could eat. After dinner, the adjoining bar offered a perfect way to end the day -- a favorite drink while sitting above the water and listening to the waves break.
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