Athens Greece


By Glenn Cook - Posted on 19 October 2008

Athens is a big, spread out city with lots of traffic. But despite the sprawl, it is still the cradle of western civilization. At the very heart of the city lies the most magnificent plot of ground over which anyone can walk. Its heritage and pedigree are undeniable. Entering the heart of the city, you are entering an area where men have gathered for thousands of years. It is a special and magical treat to walk where ancient Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans tread.


Rising majestically above the city is the Acropolis. On this mound lies the most important monuments of western civilization -- buildings which have been copied and modified architecturally around the world. On first sight, you cannot take your eyes off of the rock mountain. The buildings on top were originally built during the reign of Pericles in the fifth century BC. This was the height of the Athenian city-state. Outstanding among these buildings is the Parthenon which was a tribute to the goddess Athena. However, during this trip, we did not take the time to visit the Acropolis, but explored the less visited area of Filopappos Hill.


Filopappos Hill was once known as the Hill of Muses and is found on the southwest side of the Acropolis; it is an easy walk from the Akropli Metro station. On the walk from the Metro station, you pass the new Acropolis Museum. Although not opened when we passed by (it will open in early 2009 but can be entered for a preview of things to come), its glass walls allow you to view the Acropolis and the building's glass floors allow you to walk above and see below you ancient settlements. The museum has received great reviews and would be worth a visit if I had more time. But, today we continue on to the Hill which is entered from a cobble-stoned path off of the Apostolou Pavlou.


This path is known as the Deme of Koile. It was the road that allowed the ancient Greeks to travel from the Acropolis to the port of Piraeus. Off to the left and about 100 yards along the road is a small dirt path leading to Socrates' prison. It is here that Socrates was allegedly imprisoned and where he supposedly drank hemlock. It offers a great view of the Acropolis and is a quiet place to reflect.


Continuing up the path to the top of the hill is the Filopappos monument. Gauis Julius Filopappos was a Roman Senator who retired to Athens in the first century AD; the remains of the monument salute the Senator and his dedication to the Athenians. Again, the view is breathtaking and one that is missed by most travelers to this city. From the top of the hill, you can see the sprawl of Athens to the North and the Sardonic Gulf to the south.


Walking down the hill to the northwest and past the Church of Agios Dimitrios Lomumbardiaris, you enter the true birthplace of democracy -- the Pynx. As a lawyer, I am particularly interested in the Pnyx and what it represents to the world of ideas and freedom. On this small, rocky place lies one of the most significant sites of philosophical and political development in the world. It is here where men first gathered to openly discuss and argue their points of view. Where men appeared before thousands of others to fervently state what they thought was right and try to convince the majority of them to agree. It was here that the totalitarian state disappeared and democracy arose. A remarkable place that changed history.


I step onto the platform where the great orators of ancient Greece once stood and faced toward the Acropolis; I could almost feel the power that they must have felt. The theater is now empty, but the change that took place here lives on throughout the world. Men still seek the ideals of impartiality and justice that were born here -- deep in my heart and soul I pray that noble and brave men everywhere never succumb to any totalitarian state and always keep alive the flame of equality that was born here.


From here, we walked along the west side of the Acropolis and up the Areopagus Rock. Once known as Mars Hill, it was here that the Council of Nobles and Judicial Court met to offer justice to criminals; it is also here that Saint Paul spoke to the Athenians around 50 AD. The sun was setting as we stood on the rock and many people from all over the world enjoyed the beautiful sight as daylight came to an end.


Dinner is available at many locations in an area known as the Platka. The Platka lies just below the Acropolis and near the Roman Forum and Agora. It is filled with small shops, markets, restaurants, and tourist. It is crowded with taverns serving mousaka, souvlaki and other Greek specialities. There are many cafes to choose from in this area. But one of my favorites is the Byzantino Restaurant -- sit outside under the trees and enjoy the food as well as the people watching. You will have a great meal with attentive service here.


After dinner, we returned to the Hilton Hotel via Syntagma Square. At the square, we watch the changing of the guards at the tomb of the unknown soldier in front of the Parliament. An impressive sight as the very tall Evzone soldiers march in unison to protect their fallen comrade. A short metro ride leads use back to the Hilton; it is a modern hotel that has a great outdoor pool and gym/spa. If you are so inclined, the bar on the roof offers expensive drinks and a fantastic view of the Acropolis. I pass on the view and head to bed as another travel day comes to an end.